The cosmetics industry still sees a significant gender disparity in leadership roles. A recent report from MBS Intelligence reveals that 71% of executive positions in Europe’s major beauty companies are occupied by men.

Umberto Giannini, a vegan haircare brand established in 1998 by renowned celebrity hairstylist Umberto Giannini and his partner Claire Shread, is challenging this trend.

Umberto, who had worked with famous personalities like Madonna and Naomi Campbell, passed away in 2001 from a rare autoimmune disease at the young age of 33. His partner Claire, now 57, took over the business and retains full ownership.

Shread has built a 22-member all-female team, a choice she describes as initially organic but now a strategic decision that brings numerous benefits.

“Our product development is rooted in understanding women’s experiences with their hair and the challenges they face. This female-centric perspective gives us a distinct advantage,” she explained. Shread acknowledges that while men could contribute significantly, the unique dynamics of an all-female team are invaluable.

Umberto Giannini’s flagship product, the pink Curl Jelly, has been a staple in UK retailers for many years. Shread revealed that the company achieved a profit of around £15 million in its latest financial year and is projected to exceed £21 million in revenues this year. The brand has recently branched out into markets in Australia and the Netherlands, with expectations for 2025 to be a booming year for growth.

Shread intentionally created a female-dominated senior leadership structure, believing it has significantly contributed to the company’s recent success and collaborative ethos.

“In the past, I’ve hired men for senior roles and encountered challenges, which led me to prioritize female leaders in my business,” she said. “The ease of communication and a mutual understanding of our skills fosters a supportive atmosphere. Our focus is collective success, which has been fundamental in navigating the complexities of running a profitable business.”

However, Shread admits that maintaining an all-female leadership team has its difficulties, including facing bias in financial contexts—a challenge she has seen improve over the years—and the pressure to present flawlessly. “There are perceptions to overcome regarding senior women leading an all-female team,” she remarked.

Shread expressed her frustration that an all-female executive team remains an exception rather than the norm in the industry. “I wish our management team was simply known as the management team, not distinguished by gender. Although there are many women in beauty, ascending to upper management remains a challenge,” she stated.

With a background in fine arts, Shread met Umberto when she was commissioned to design his hair salons. Their desire to fill a gap for curly hair products led them to launch the brand.

Umberto developed a vegan and cruelty-free curl gel, responding to Shread’s environmental concerns—a crucial factor in building the brand’s foundation in the early 2000s. After confirming its effectiveness on her own wavy hair, they collaborated with a manufacturer, and Umberto’s reputation propelled the brand’s visibility.

“Umberto believed that all hair textures are beautiful and that one need not strive for straight hair,” Shread recounted.

Following Umberto’s passing, Shread was determined to sustain the company for their two young sons. “I was driven by the need to ensure his legacy endured. My commitment was to keep the brand thriving,” she reflected.

In 2003, Shread bought out their initial manufacturer, seeing sales grow, which led to an exclusive ten-year licensing agreement with Boots in 2006. This arrangement allowed more flexibility to engage with her children while maintaining control over creative decisions such as marketing. Although the partnership spurred brand recognition, by 2016, she was eager to reclaim full ownership of the company.

“I envisioned significant growth potential. Returning to control enabled us to accelerate product development,” she elaborated.

Shread credits the company’s hybrid working model, established well before the pandemic, with attracting top female talent after leaving Boots. Employees are expected to work in the London office two days a week and part-time schedules are welcomed.

“As an employer, flexibility is key,” she emphasized. “If you have a talented individual who prefers a part-time arrangement, it’s a worthy trade-off for their exceptional contributions.”

She attributes the company’s sustained growth to its refusal to become complacent and its alignment with societal shifts towards an authentic and vegan ethos. “The market rarely accommodates you; you often need to create your own path,” she noted. “We’ve always embodied those principles.”

Harnessing platforms like TikTok has also played a crucial role in expanding into new markets. A viral reel featuring the Curl Jelly in Australia prompted Shread to explore that market.

“Identifying what might capture attention is unpredictable. As we navigate algorithms and promotions, unique content can resonate widely. Being a creative at heart, that aspect excites me,” she shared.

The curly hair care products market is projected to reach nearly $15 billion by 2030, and Shread is now setting her sights on the United States. American consumers constitute the brand’s second-largest audience on social media, with a comprehensive US launch planned for next year.

“The focus must always be on what’s next,” Shread concluded. “One in two Gen Z individuals in the US has curly hair, representing a vast market potential.”